New Workshop Dates, Info and Booking

We are working on various areas of  the website in an attmept to make it more user friendly, useful and informative to you.

One of the things we have done is to update the workshops page of the site.

This page now has a column on the left hand side of the page detailing upcoming workshops and pertinent information. Each workshop will have its’ own page giving full information to the viewer which will become available over the coming weeks. I hope this will help and if you’ve any suggestions or comments, please do let me know. Many thanks, Mary

Beginners Classes/Workshops – Corsage Making

Wednesday June 2nd

All tools, equipment and materials for use on the day will be provided. Small classes will be arranged at my studio in Hunters quay.  This is in easy walking distance of Western Ferry.

Cost £35 per day including light lunch 10 am – 4pm

Beginners Classes/Workshops – Locker Hooking

Thursday June 12th

All tools, equipment and materials for use on the day will be provided. Small classes will be arranged at my studio in Hunters quay.  This is in easy walking distance of Western Ferry.

Cost £35 per day including light lunch 10 am – 4pm

Beginners Classes/Workshops – Hooking and Prodding

Wednesday May 19th

Thursday May 27th

Tuesday June 8th

All tools, equipment and materials for use on the day will be provided. Small classes will be arranged at my studio in Hunters quay.  This is in easy walking distance of Western Ferry.

Cost £35 per day including light lunch 10 am – 4pm

Workshop – Dyeing in the Microwave Oven

Now that better weather is here, at last, and we can work outside (or at least in a well ventilated room) I will be including dyeing fabrics as several students have expressed interest.

This is a 2 day workshop held from 10am to 4pm on dates as below:

Saturday May 22 and Sunday May 23rd or…

Saturday June 12th and Sunday June 13th.Sunday June 13th

Our main focus will be on using colour in our rag rug making but there will be opportunities to revise any hooking or prodding methods you would welcome or tackle any rag rug problems you have experienced.  Advance knowledge would allow the most useful advice to be provided.

 Cooking and dyeing in the same area must be avoided so please bring a packed lunch.  We will set up the provision of drinks in a separate room. Hopefully the sun will shine for us.

Cost £65 to include fabric samples and dyes used. Gloves provided but please wear old clothes or bring an apron.

Using Colour

Recycling and Pointillism

Our work with textiles can be more exciting if we aim to blend small quantities of many shades and tints of closely related colours rather than use large areas of a single hue. Using of recycled materials and scraps will encourage this way of working – the eye will mix colours for you. The impressionist painters led the way with this approach.

Need for contrast

Choice of colour is very personal and you will probably find that your own discarded clothing will reflect your preferred palette. We tend to accumulate many items in the mid-value tones and have to make a conscious effort to collect the very light and dark fabrics that bring our work to life. Plenty of contrast is needed if designs are to read clearly from any distance.

New life by dying

We often have fabrics in our stash that we cannot imagine ever using but that are too good to throw away. Here over-dying can give them a new lease of life. It is possible to produce a large quantity of colour coordinated fabric suitable for say, a lively background. Put several, not quite matching, fabrics into the same dye pot to achieve a mixture that suggests you have spent many hours searching and collecting. Small quantities can be produced by heat setting dyes using yoghurt pots and an old microwave oven (kept for this purpose).

Wool is easy to dye

Wool is probably the most versatile material for floor rugs and felted jumpers are a favourite material. These can be dyed using acid dyes that usually come with their own mordants. Stock solutions can be made up that keep well

Give It A Go

Rag Art really encourages students to try dyeing their own fabrics. It is much easier than you think. The natural dyes are quite beautiful and somehow all seem to work well together. Start with onion skins for a range of yellows then look at some of the good books now added to our web site or that can be ordered from the library.

Natural Dyes ARE Wonderful

I really love the natural dyes which seem to have a lustre all of their own. However, I have to accept that dying is a skilled craft in its own right. It requires an investment of considerable time, knowledge and willingness to experiment to become accomplished. The colours from natural dyes are the result of many factors acting together. The time of year and conditions under which material is collected; temperature; ph of water (how acid or alkaline it is), mordant used, material being dyed etc. I am always pleased when I make the effort, but with natural dyes it is quite difficult to get the same results on another day so I have to admit to cheating, more than a little, for some acceptable and quicker results.

Commercial, Acid Dyes

Wool is my favourite material, whether it is in the form of yarn, knitted garments, woven fabric or even unspun fleece. It accepts acid dyes very easily to give deep, rich, colour. The simplest are now available with mordants included so that you can avoid the step of having to use chemicals to prepare your materials to accept the dye. This makes it very easy to apply colour in a variety of ways (a simple paint brush will suffice) and there are more easy ways to heat set this colour.

Also, Dye Silk and Old Tights

The same acid dyes will also dye silk, other protein fibres and nylon fabrics. (Try it on your old tights – you can remove most of the existing colour by simply boiling them with a little soap powder). If you over-dye greys, beiges and other dull fabrics you will get exciting, but slightly, muted new colours.

Safety First

You must heed a few safety precautions but mixing the dye from its powder form into a liquid stock solution is probably the most ‘tricky’ part. If you do this out of doors or in a well ventilated room you should not experience any problems. It is sensible to work carefully – don’t ‘chuck’ the powder into a container causing dust to fly around as this could be an irritant to some people. Once you have your liquid dye, colours can be mixed like paint to give an almost infinite range. Staining your hands or floor is the biggest hazard. Clear your work area, keep special tools and containers just for dying, use rubber gloves, protect work surfaces and the floor and avoid eating, drinking or smoking while working with dyes.

Practice and Play for Success and Confidence

Do make some time, with a friend – this helps. Or, come on a workshop. You will be amazed at what you can achieve and once you can control getting the colours you want you won’t need nearly such large collections of fabrics. Of course that is a theoretical idea, as I have yet to meet a textile addict who can avoid accumulating more!

Colour for FREE

Still feeling nervous? Try getting hold of some strong coloured woollen garment say red or royal blue, coating is good for this. Just cut off a sleeve or some part (very scientific!) Put in an old saucepan and cover with water – add some soap powder and bring slowly to the boil. The colour will start to run and you can then add some white or cream wool to collect some of this colour. When this has taken up sufficient dye to give a colour you are happy with add a cup of white vinegar and ‘cook’ for 15 minutes more. Remove from pan and rinse well. Cake colourings and some children’s drinks will also dye some fabrics so there is nothing to be afraid of when using these. Natural dyeing using mordants IS more challenging but the results ARE worth the effort.

New Book

I was really impressed when I visited Eve Lambert in her studio, ‘Shilasdair’ on the Isle of Skye. Her naturally dyed yarns display the subtle colourings that can be achieved. Her book, co-authored with Tracy Kendall is generous in sharing their wide expertise. This new book by Search Press is excellent value at £12.99. It is full of hints, tips and illustrations that are well worth reading. Even if you intend to simplify some of the processes you will have your eyes opened to the exciting world of colour. I am now pleased to offer this book on my web site.

This is only Chapter I about dyeing. Colouring cottons and synthetics is another story. More later.

Exhibition in Cheshire – 15th May to 17th July 2010

A Celebration of Rag Rugs

Explore the diversity of style, design and technique in this exhibition of rag rugs from the traditional to the contemporary. Featuring the work of numerous artists from across Britain, including the stunning designs of Louisa and Lewis Creed. 

Exhibition at: Nantwich Museum, Pillory Street, Nantwich, Cheshire, CW5 5BQ;   http://www.nantwichmuseum.org.uk/;   telephone: 01270 627104.

 

Cutting Strips for ‘Proddy’ or Rugger/‘Bodged’ Rugs

Using a Kai Rotary Cutter to create the strips

Using a Kai Rotary Cutter to create the strips

Firstly cut a long strip thus can be varied in width to give different effects.   Width should also be varied according the thickness of the material with finer fabrics needing to be cut wider to stay in place.

Now cut these strips into short lengths according to depth of pile wanted. Suggest 3” as a start.  Just cut a few and try it to see if it gives the effect you want.  Cutting straight across will give an even, tailored look while cutting on the slant will give a more shaggy look.  (See samples)

 

 

The strip as cut by the Kai Rotary Cutter

The strip as cut by the Kai Rotary Cutter

Sharp scissors will do a good job while you are assessing whether you enjoy the craft.  The process can be speeded up considerably by using a rotary cutter, ruler and self healing board.  Don’t cut too much of any one fabric until you try it – you can’t stick it together again if it’s not right. This sounds obvious but it is the most common error.

 

For even more variation the straight cut pieces can be shredded.  This is best done after they are in place for an extremely shaggy look.

 

 

Different ends to the strips create a different feel and look for your work

Different ends to the strips create a different feel and look for your work

Finally try out a variety of petal shapes to produce a wide range of flowers.

Workshops in 2010

Every day this past week has brought enquiries about workshops or other ways to learn to make rag rugs.  The techniques you need to learn are quite simple but it is easier for most people to see these demonstrated and to be able to ask questions in order to make rapid progress.

I do run workshops here in Dunoon, Scotland but distance prevents most people attending.  In the summer months holiday makers attend or travel up with a friend or partner for a weekend (two days) of tuition.  There are lovely walks, cycling, climbing, sailing, fishing and golf for the active, painting and photography for the artistic and just admiring some amazing scenery for those that just want to unwind.  We are hoping this year to arrange a summer school which will run over 5 days (Watch this space) and currently trying to arrange an accessible venue, at a reasonable cost.   I have many customers in the South but also all over the country as well as France, Spain, USA and Australia.

The biggest problem these days is that people have very busy lives. They can be reluctant to commit themselves in advance to a one day workshop but ironically if you arrange something at short notice then they say – I wanted to come but…………… and classes have to be cancelled through lack of support.  Anything published quickly goes out of date. To try and get round this with the help of the blog and e  mails  I am outlining what I hope will work better in future.  This is designed to be read alongside the workshop page on my web site which will contain the ‘fixed’ or relatively unchanging information about what we offer.  By far the most popular workshop is the ‘ Beginners Hooky and Proddy’ and these are arranged both well in advance and also quite spontaneously if demand arises.

I have listed on the workshop web page the most regular workshops. If any of these might interest you it would be more likely to happen at an early date if you were to complete an Enquiry form on the workshops page of the main website. This will alert Rag Art to your interest and help organise a group who also want more information on that topic.

Workshops coming soon:

June 5th City Farm Edinburgh, book with LILI www. lili.lowimpactliving

July 24th City Farm Newcastle

We have already been able to introduce some of those travelling in order to share transport.

Preparing fabrics strips for rug hooking.

Since both hooking and proddy techniques have to begin by preparing  materials ready for use, I will explore a few ideas to make this task easier.  You can manage entirely with any sharp pair of scissors but do avoid using these for cutting paper or they won’t stay sharp for long.  Some synthetics will also blunt keen cutting edges so I reserve an old pair for such use. (Knife grinders and scissor sharpeners are not always easy to find but some robust scissors will sharpen up fairly well even with the gadgets made  for home use)  I find long blades help and most of the scissors supplied by Rag Art are spring loaded so that there is less strain on the hand when a large amount of cutting has to be done.

Which way should I cut the material?

Strips are strongest if cut on the straight of the grain. If you have new cloth this will be parallel with the selvedge.  At first, this direction may not be so easy to determine when you are using recycled fabric as you may have a jumble of irregular shapes and sizes.  Usually unuseable fabric from seams, welts, pockets and facings is cut out and discarded and the good fabric washed and ironed before cutting.  This is good practice not only because it ensures it is perfectly clean. (One wearing only could attract moth) but it also tightens the fibres slightly which reduces fraying,  This is particularly true for woollen fabrics.  Knits can be lightly felted by washing on a hot wash ( with a heavy towel or plimsole to agitate the load).  If for example you have a sleeve to cut up, fold it in half from shoulder to wrist and the fold line will be on the straight of the grain. This sounds complicated but you will very soon get your eye in. If you were measuring your bust/chest you would place the tape measure around the body and you DONT want to cut knitwear in that direction as it might unravel.   Again you want to cut from neck to hem or waist to hem on skirt or trousers to be  ‘ on the straight of the grain’ or strongest direction.

Using a rotary Cutter

Rotary Cutter

Rotary Cutter

Rag rugcrafters have now speeded up this cutting task by using rotary cutters. With the help of a wide ruler with exactly spaced line markings and a self healing cutting mat the strips are quickly and accurately prepared.  In fact it is very tempting to cut up too much before you have tested  a strip to see if the width gives the effect you want.  If you cut it slightly too wide it will be difficult to work with and make your work lumpy.  Too narrow and it will tend to be less secure.  This could waste  your time and materials.  Even experienced hookers try out new fabrics before cutting too much. You can’t stick it together again!!

The cutter Rag Art provides is made by Kai in Japan.  We had to persevere to get hold of it but after 8 years of stocking this tool are continually pleased with it.  It has a rubber handle thus comfortable to use but it is it’s safety feature that has provided a real success story.  There is a locked position but even when this is released the blade does not advance until pressure is applied by pressing it down onto the cutting mat.  As soon as you reduce this pressure the blade is protected  again.  Thus, even if the tool gets hidden under fabric it is safe.  Some models by other manufacturers require you to remember to switch the blade into the safety position every time you use it.  The Kai blade is protected automatically.

Like everything else there is a knack to using a rotary cutter. It looks so simple that people can be very put off it they don’t find it easy to make a clean cut on their first attempt.  You might be lucky but if you have problems check the points below.  Wool is the easiest to cut and synthetics the most difficult so I suggest you cut your teeth using wool and don’t feel daft about asking an experienced friend so that you too get the knack.  Start with a small piece of fabric and have success  with short cuts before trying a longer length.  The fabric is trapped under the ruler to hold it still, usually with the left hand while the right hand guides the cutter by running it along the ruler.

Tips

1.Put your cutting board on a surface that is not too high.  This will depend on your height but you want to be able to swing your weight over it.  Try out some different heights and this will make sense.

2.Make sure the fabric to be cut is not wrinkled. Often it is less slippery and easier to hold down firmly with your ruler if the material is folded in half with the most slippery surface on the inside.

3. Always push the cutter away from you. With a craft knife the opposite direction is more usual.

4. Start with cutter with its flat side against the ruler and a little way from the fabric so that you cut cleanly over the edge.

5. Cut steadily and deliberately swinging your weight over the cutter and listen to the sound it makes. You will very quickly learn to recognise when it has cut cleanly.

6. Once you are ready to make longer cuts the best tip to avoid the ruler slipping is to keep the ruler hand level with the cutter hand. This requires you to move your ruler hand once or twice while the cutting is in progress.  Again this sounds tricky but it will soon make sense.

7. Some rulers have rough patches on the reverse side which helps grip the fabric.  If not you can purchase small adhesive discs of sandpaper that do help.

8. Some people are a little nervous of these sharp cutters at first.  You can purchase handles with suction grips to hold the ruler while you gain confidence. However, you will soon develop the knack and save many hours with the scissors.

9. The popular cutting mats will protect your furniture and magically do self heal.  To care for them long term they are best stored flat and away from direct heat.  Do not be tempted to iron over them, rest your coffee cup on them or leave them in a hot car or in the sun.  If they get a bit scruffy there is a small tool that will rub the surface and bring it up like new again.

10. SIZE of strip. Usually we cut these 30 cms or more and the width will depend on the thickness of material and mesh size of your base fabric.  as a guide if using a general purpose hook start with 1cm (3/8″) then adjust as described above.  Try it out before cutting too much.

NB We have just received delivery of a larger cutter with 60 mm blade which is helpful for those of you preparing materials for groups.  This model is £24.95 and not yet on the shop section of the web site.